Restaurant Mühle at Kartause Ittingen has a new Head Chef: Frederik Ohlms will passionately continue the 0-kilometer menu principle, expertly utilizing products grown and produced on the approximately 100 hectares of land, which either go directly into the kitchen or are further processed by the in-house producers.
Interview with Frederik Ohlms, Head Chef Kartause Ittingen
What do you stand for?
For sustainable, holistic cuisine. I want to connect gastronomy even more with producers. And, of course, for good craftsmanship. Especially nowadays, it's important to me to pass this on to the next generation. Furthermore, I also consider societal aspects, such as dietary trends. And ultimately, it's about taste, about the experience. We want to offer enjoyment. People should love coming to eat.
Why do you have yellow wellington boots in your office?
(Laughs) We regularly wade into the horse pond with them to harvest watercress.
What's your background?
I'm interested in art, languages, and cultures, and I started with art history and ethnology. During my studies, however, I realized that my part-time job interested me more. Food can also be art. Hospitality and food are an important part of every culture; they connect people. So my path led me from the ground up to Michelin-starred gastronomy. In Switzerland, I worked with Stefan Wiesner, and now I'm here, in a place where culinary arts, art, history, agriculture, and sustainability are symbiotically united. That's a perfect fit.
What are you passionate about?
Good food.
What's your personal motto?
If you're going to do something, do it right – no half measures.
You've been at Kartause Ittingen for a few months now. Do you already have a favorite product?
I love our Rebkäse, for example.
Do you also have a favorite herb?
Yes, watercress.
Which product have you been able to surprise people with?
I think with fig leaves, which I ordered from our in-house nursery. We made an oil from them and infused Panna Cotta with it. For those who don't know it, it has a slight coconut flavor. So, a touch of local exoticism.
Describe your cooking style in a few words.
Creative, simple, bold, concise.
What do you want to achieve at Kartause Ittingen?
I have set myself the goal of being able to use at least one Ittingen product for every dish year-round. In the medium term, I envision a flavor library featuring all Ittingen products.
How do you cook at home?
At home, I cook very simply, but also dishes I don't prepare here, such as seafood. I also enjoy baking bread and am always trying out new things.
Why are frills not your thing?
It's easier to add things than to take them away. A little herb here, a tiny flower there. For me, all components on the plate must make sense so that one can focus on the essentials – the product itself and its taste. And that's why the plate is usually quite pure.
What do you value most in a team?
Good collaboration, where everyone looks out for each other. Then I try to encourage experimentation and inspire them to take a different perspective.
Where do you get your inspiration?
From nature, from specialist books. Sometimes it just comes to you; like here, through the history of the place, by talking to producers and walking around the grounds with open eyes.
What do you do in your free time?
Besides cooking and baking, I naturally enjoy eating out, being in nature, and I paint or draw whenever I get the chance.
Carrot or steak?
Steak.
Fillet or sweetbreads?
Sweetbreads.
Sweet or savory?
Both. Often at the same time.
What do you put on your bread?
A good piece of cheese on homemade sourdough bread.
What do you always have in your fridge at home?
Crispy chili oil and, of course, cheese.
A special taste experience you'll never forget?
When I first ate seafood as a child. And pickled caterpillars in Congo. They went surprisingly well with beer.
When was the last time you ate instant soup?
Two weeks ago, kimchi ramen.